Northwest of the Sacred Valley
In this page, I will talk to you about about this geographical location which include Machu Picchu, Santa Teresa, Quillabamba, Choquequirao, the Salkantay and Humantay Lake. In this region, we encounter not only mountains, but also a varied and exotic biodiversity. Hiking to Machu Picchu is a bucket-list destination for many. But what many visitors to Peru don’t realize, is that there are far more options than just the Inca trail for reaching the Inca city. Here I will share with you the options you have to go to Machu Picchu as well as what you can see and visit in the erea.
Quillabamba
Also called “City of Eternal Summer”, Quillabamba is located in an area called the high jungle, in the southern department of Cusco. It is a city with beautiful waterfalls, characterized by an exotic landscape, pleasant climate and a tropical atmosphere. Agriculture is the most important activity, principally coffee, cacao, tea and coca. Quillabamba is one of the favorite '’escape’' destinations of Cusco residents and is definitely worth the detour. It is 160 kms from Urubamba and approximately 4 hours drive. The road is not in really good conditions on some sections, and be aware if you get car sick easily, the serpentine road in the mountain has many beautiful points of view but might be hard on you.
Humantay Lake
Humantay Lake is named after the nearby mountain and is considered one of the most beautiful and sacred lakes in Cusco. Just a quick look at its turquoise waters with the snow-capped mountains of Salkantay (6,270 m) in the background, will charm you. To get to Humantay Lake from the city of Cusco, you must travel about 120 km. The entrance fee is paid in the town of Mollepata and is 10 soles for foreign visitors and 5 soles for Peruvian. The community of Soraypampa offer a horse rental service at the starting point of the hike to Humantay Lake. It is only available for uphill treks and has an approximate cost of 90 soles. You like camping? Just 3 minutes from the lake, there is an Eco camp if you want to stay there a bit longer.
Salkantay
Salkantay, often translated as “Savage Mountain,” is considered the highest peak in the Vilcabamba mountain range. It is about 60 kilometers northwest of the city of Cusco. Salkantay has two snow-topped peaks, known as China Salkantay and Salkantay hembra, that are separated by a pass that opens into the Santa Ana Valley in the Urubamba province. You can do a 1 day treck, which is an excellent option for hiking lovers like me that don’t want to sleep in a tent in the cold. This site requires an entrance ticket, which is paid to the local government of Mollepata. The cost is 20 soles for foreigners and 10 soles for Peruvians. Salkantay Trek is an ancient path located in the same region as the Inca Trail. So if you like hiking, you can do a 5-day trek to Machu Picchu.
Choquequirao
At 3035 meters in the Salkantay Range lies ‘’Machu Picchu’s sister,’’ the Choquequirao, strategically located between Cusco (160 kms) and the Amazon rainforest (75 km from Machu Picchu). This impressive stone citadel completely surrounded by vegetation, is presumed to be a sacred center, which also served to connect Pisac and Machu Picchu with the Peruvian Amazon. Due to its complex access, it is also hypothesized that this area served as a refuge for the Incas, after the attacks of the Spanish Empire.
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Every route taken to Choquequirao is done on foot, in excursions that take 3 to 5 days. You have to be physically prepared because of the long walks. The Choquequirao is located 2 days' walk from Cachora, a village 4 hours by bus from Cusco. When you get to San Pedro de Cachora you will have to take a bus to the Capuliyoc viewpoint from where you will start your walk. Because of it’s location, I still didn’t go… but it’s on my ‘’to do list’’ hopefully before the end of the year 2024. National Tourists : 40 soles - Foreign Tourists: $15 USD (pictures from my friends who went in June 2024).
Santa Teresa
The town of Santa Teresa is nothing much in itself, in other words, there’s nothing to see and do except its famous Cocalmayo thermal baths, considered the best in Cusco. The entrance is only 10 soles for tourists and 5 soles for Peruvians. It is also known because it is a route when you want to go to Machu Picchu via the adventurous ‘'Hidroeléctrica’' route. Its climate is one of the hottest in the region since it is located in the high jungle part of Peru. Santa Teresa is 203 kms from Cusco and 45 kms (1.5 hours) from Quillabamba and let me tell you that the road to go there is the scariest I have taken so far. Many visitors decide not to take the train from Ollantaytambo to go to Machu Picchu, but to take a longer route that includes a 10 kms walk from the '’Hidroeléctrica’' train station to the town of Aguas Calientes. So if you decide to visit Quillabamba, you can then go to Santa Teresa, enjoy the thermal baths (its waters are rich in essential minerals which have healing properties) and the next day, walk to Aguas Calientes. You will only have a 1 way train ticket to buy afterwards to go to Ollantaytambo and then visit the Sacred Valley.
Machu Picchu
Last but not the least... located on top of a mountain in the middle of a tropical forest, Machu Picchu (or Machupicchu) is considered the tourist attraction par excellence in Peru. The historic sanctuary has a captivating and dazzling architectural beauty, and represents a masterpiece of art, architecture, and engineering in perfect harmony with nature. If you visit Machu Picchu and you are physically fit, you should definitely climb up to the top of Huayna Picchu (only 200 spots available every day), which offers a unique and exclusive view of Machu Picchu. But be aware if you decide to do it, the trail and steps are very narrow and steep.
I love Machu Picchu, I went 3 times and I still didn’t see all of it. The big problem is that over the years, the Peruvian Ministry of Culture has restricted more and more the access and made significant changes in their rules and regulations. Since 2021, they started to make pre-established circuits. According to the new regulations since June 1st 2024, visitors now have: 10 circuits/routes to choose from (some only available in high season, from June 1st to October 15th), a tolerance of up to 45 minutes with respect to their scheduled entrance time, a maximum of 4 hours to tour the citadel through the new itineraries. The Machu Picchu ticket costs 152.00 soles. If you book the 1,2 or 4 days Inca trail trek, your ticket is included.
No matter how you decide to get to it, by taking the train and bus, the Inca trail, the Salcantay or Hidroeléctrica trail, it is definitely worth seeing, even with all the new restrictions. As for me, it's a 100% sure that I will go back and let myself be charmed again by it's beauty. As for it's city, Machupicchu pueblo (Aguas Calientes), there's not much to see and do. If you like shopping, you'll be happy, there's lots of shops, craft market and restaurants. If you go all the way up, there's also thermal baths but they are far from as nice as Cocalmayo or Lares. Northwest, along the river, you can walk in the Los Jardines de Mandor gardens with beautiful orchids and birds.