The Jungle and Lake Titicaca
We are now in my last section! I agree that the jungle and Lake Titicaca don’t really go together, but they were my last 2 destinations that I wanted to share with you and they are both on the border of Bolivia…
so I guess they have something in common.
We’ll start first with Puerto Maldonado, known as a gateway to the southern Amazon jungle… so don’t forget your bug repellent! I will then take you at the world’s highest navigable lake and one of South America’s stunning natural wonders: Lake Titicaca.
I will talk to you about not only the lake and its island, but also what’s interesting to visit around. Let’s go!
Puerto Maldonado
If you want to take it easy, an overnight bus from Cusco will take you to Puerto Maldonado in about 10 hours. It offers all the possibilities and plans for a vacation in total contact with nature. Located on the banks of the Madre de Dios and Tambopata rivers, it has access to the Interoceanic Highway that connects it with Brazil and Bolivia. Puerto Maldonado is now a major tourist destination for Peru’s Amazon Rainforest. Home to incredible Amazon animals like the jaguar, tapir, macaw parrots, toucans, anaconda, many different monkeys and caiman crocodilians, there are many activities where you can enjoy kayaking, jungle beaches, walks through native forests, fishing piranias and much more.
As for me, I did a 3 nights/4 days tour in the jungle. If you are not a princess and you don’t require much cleanliness, you can try it! Even if my little wood cabin was really rustic, I slept really well with the background noises of the jungle. Unless you pay for a higher end hotel or resort, the water comes straight from the river, so it’s the water you have in the shower… and it’s not hot. There were mini solar panels in the main room where we ate to charge our phone (to take pictures and use as a flashlight because there’s no signal there) and at night we were having supper at candlelight. (I don't have pictures of the place, only a video that I put below... sorry, in French).
While I was there, the guide took us for walks in the jungle during the day and night to show us special animals and trees… There, I didn’t mind to have a guide because it was all about nature! I visited Tambopata National Reserve where I went on Lake Sandoval to hope to see otters (and I didn’t), caimans, monkeys and birds. Depending on your guide and group size, you might have to help and row the boat! At night, on the river Madre de Dios, we went caiman hunting and our guide brought one in the boat to show us. I did also kayak, we went to see the monkey island… my only regret is that I didn’t see any sloths… So I will have to go back!
If you don’t want to sleep in the jungle, there are many hotels in Puerto Maldonado where you can stay, and go to the Plaza de Armas where you will find many agencies where you can book only day tours. Personally, that’s what I’ll do next time.
Certain places will offer you the zipline and suspended bridge... if you never did it, you can go but honestly, it's not worth it.
Here's a couple of pictures more and videos.
Lake Titicaca
Lake Titicaca is at 3812 metres above sea level in the Andes Mountains, in the Puno region. Approximately 56 % of the lake is on the Peruvian side while the east part lies in the La Paz department in Bolivia. The deep blue of the water seems to mix with the sky and the snow-tipped peaks of the mountains in the background creates an amazing landscape.
Lake Titicaca was sacred to the Inca. According to legend, Viracocha, the Inca god of creation, emerged from the depths of the lake and created the sun, the moon, the stars, and mankind. This marked the birth of the Inca Empire and its great expansion
across the Andes and beyond. If this isn’t the first page of my blog that you read, you know how I don’t really care about the ‘’official stories’’ that the guides will tell you, but this one is beautiful and I kinda want to believe it. From the lakeside city of Puno, you can board a boat to the floating Uros Islands, Taquile and Amantani islands. From the Bolivia side, in Copacabana, you can visit the island of the moon and sun, which protect ancient ways of life and numerous ancient ruins, dating back to pre-Inca civilizations. On this lake, encounters with local fishermen, artisans, and shepherds along the way will guarantee an unforgettable experience. Let’s see the details!
Uros Islands
What most tourist explore, it’s the Uros Floating Islands. The founders of these islands, the Uru, are ancient indigenous people of Peru and Bolivia. Threatened by the Inca invasion, they fled the mainland to set up home in the center of the lake. They have inhabited these fascinating man-made torta reed islands for centuries since. Locals greet you as you take your first steps on the soft and springy island surface. They will explain the regular upkeep their reed homes require and show you how they weave the reeds together to build their thatched homes, furniture, and canoe-style boats.
Taquile Island
This beautiful island will charm you. When you look at the lake, it feels like it’s the sea. There’s beautiful little rock arches and pathways all around the island. Normally, the boat will drop you on one side of the island and pick you up on the other side. Here, where life moves at a slower pace, communities have preserved centuries-old traditions. Unlike other textile communities, the island's male population undertakes much of the work. Colorful traditional clothing is usually the first cultural aspect that catches your eyes. But did you know the dress style varies from island to island? On Taquile Island, you can tell a man’s marital status, not by a ring on his finger, but the color of the hat on his head!
Amantani Island
Amantani is often considered as the most authentic place with undeniable beauty on the lake. Quite a distance separates Amantani from mainstream tourism in Lake Titicaca. Travelers who make the voyage to discover the island’s remote location will normally live with a family for 20 hours. Roughly 4,000 people live on the island and, like their Inca ancestors, their main economic activity is farming. You can walk along the island’s cobbled pathways to mountain top temples of Pachamama and Pachatata, at your own pace of course because the altitude gets to you, and admire the beautiful view.
Isla del Sol & Luna - Bolivia
After a boat trip of approx 2 hours if I recall correctly, you will set foot on La Isla del Sol, a place of Andean legend. Like I was saying earlier, it’s the mythical birthplace of the Incas. The island have many interesting ruins that pre-date the Inca Empire and have been dated back to as far as 300 BC. The Chincana ruins, also known as “The Labyrinth,” are believed to have been a holy complex for Inca priests. Unfortunately, I didn’t do that trip alone like I’m used to, everything went wrong and I was a bit stressed with time so I didn’t have the chance to visit them along with the Temple of the Sun.
You can do like I did and spend the night on the island in one of the many little’s hotels. If you are in no rush, stay 2 or 3 days to enjoy the island (which I will do next time), like many other places in Peru, it feels like you are going back in time. The best way to explore the island is by walking the trail circuits connecting the northern part of the island to its southern tip.
There are also tours offered from Copacobana to visit both islands in 1 day, which is approximately 6 or 7 hours. Like the other islands, you will probably be greeted by some local women selling souvenirs with their llama. On la Isla de la Luna, there’s only 1 site (Iñaq Uyu) and just an hour is enough to see it and the view of the ruins with the lake in the background is simply amazing. On la Isla del Sol, I didn’t stayed long enough to walk around it. I only looked at the ruins at the bottom, Puerto Sur Isla del Sol and walked all the way to the top to have supper in 1 of many restaurants. Next time, I’ll make sure I see all of the island, especially el Templo del Sol. You will need to pay 10 bolivars upon arrival on both islands.
Tiwanaku - Bolivia
At an altitude of 3850 metres, Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco) is an amazing site built by one of the most important and advanced civilizations of ancient Peru and Bolivia. The spiritual and political centre of the Tiwanaku culture was the capital of a powerful empire that lasted several centuries and it was characterized by the use of new technologies and materials for the architecture, pottery, textiles, metals, and basket-making. It apparently reached its apogee between 500 and 900 AD, but like any information that I have read and wrote in my blog, there’s no way to know if it’s really true. Personally, I just loved to visit the site and witness the greatness of it, even on a rainy day.
So, according to what you can read online, one of the most iconic works of Tiwanaku's architecture is the Gateway of the Sun, a monolithic portal carved out of a single block. The monument was discovered in the city’s main courtyard and may have originally served as the portal to the Puma Punku, another site approximately 10 minutes drive away. Honestly, by the pictures I had seen of it, I thought it was really big… but even if it was smaller than I thought, it’s still a beautiful monument.
In Aymara, Puma Punku means "The Gate of the Puma". The origin of the temple is a ‘’mystery’’, but based on carbon dating of organic material found at the site, archaeologists believe the complex may have been built by the Tiwanaku Empire. Based on circumstantial evidence from the archaeological site, many people argue that Puma Punku was never built by the Tiwanaku, but by a more advanced civilization from another planet. You can watch an interesting documentary on YouTube by clicking here.
So, I don’t really care what is true but a thing is sure for me... don't try to make me beleive that the Great Pyramid in Egypt took 20 years to construct by 100,000 men with stone ponders and copper blades! Egyptologists must really think we are stupid to beleive that! Peru has many enigmatics sites like the fortress of Ollantaytambo, Saqsaywaman or Machu Picchu. Earth has many huge stone sites like Stonehenge in England or the Moais of Easter Island in Chili. Who built Tiwanaku and Puma Punku and for whatever reason is not important, but they are definitely worth the detour and the price… The cost of entry to the Tiwanaku Archaeological Site, Puma Punku and Museums is 100 bolivars.
Around Lake Titicaca
After a brief step in Bolivia, we are now back in Peru.
Before finishing this section, there are 3 more sites that I visited that I want to share with you.
Weather note : As you probably guessed by now by looking at my pictures and seeing the altitude of the sites,
the weather can go low or high pretty fast. During the day, I have worn t-shirts sometimes so I suggest you dress with layers.
In the night and early morning it’s cold. The second time I arrived in Puno by bus at 5 am, there was an inch of snow on the ground.
So prepare a little bit of everything!
The Sillustani chullpas
Sillustani is a pre-Inca cemetery at 4 000 meters above sea level on the shores of Umayo lagoon, located 34 kms from the city of Puno. The bright blue waters of the lagoon are amazing and the island in the middle looks like it was made instead of being natural… who knows… According to history, before the bodies of the highest Kolla authorities were placed in the tombs, they were mummified in a foetal position. Rising up to 12 meters high with stones that fit together perfectly, like many other sites in Peru, those ‘’funeral towers’’ are really interesting (more pics below).
The entrance to the archaeological center costs 5.50 soles.
Inca Uyo
Welcome to the Temple of Fertility! Yes, those are penis. But, this temple has nothing sexual about it. The stone phalluses are a representation of gratitude for the miracle of human reproduction. It is also said that it helps infertile. There are more than 80 stone phalluses in a 200-meter enclosure of different sizes and shapes, many of them are in good condition. Inca Uyo was an Ushno (Inca Ceremonial Center), where the Incas worshipped Pachamama (representing the fertility of the earth). These ceremonies were held at the equinoxes and solstices to determine the auspicious dates for planting, with liquid offerings, which filtered into the earth (completing the representation of fertility). The site is about 30 minutes from Puno and there's no entrance fee.
Aramu Muru Portal
Popular tourist destination for those who are doing a spiritual retreat, the Aramu Muru portal has ‘’magic stories’’ about it, like in many cultures around the World. The story of Aramu Muru Portal is that it’s one of these special places with the peculiar shape of a door which goes to other worlds or dimensions. According to the legend, portals allowed Inca priests to transport themselves to different places in the Inca Empire and even the entire world. This mythological place is a square-shaped carved door, 7 meters on each side, with a hollow section at the bottom, in the center, with no exit, wide enough for a person to enter. It lies in front of a fascinating forest of stones that seem to have been placed artificially.
Also if you look at the picture but rotated 90 degrees on the left, you can see on top of the mountain the shape of a face. First time I went there, the guide told me that first, you have to go in the ‘’tube’’ on the right which is directly under the ear of the ‘’God,’’ and you can ask him whatever you want. Afterwards, you go to the other ‘’tube’’ which is under his mouth to hear his answer. Aramu Muru is also called Hayu Marca Willka Uta, which means : Hayu Marca: “city of spirits” and Willka Uta: “door of the gods”. The site is located 35 kilometers from the city of Puno and there’s no entrance fee.
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